Monday, August 3, 2020

TENT FABRIC CARE AND MAINTENANCE

TENT FABRIC CARE AND MAINTENANCE

PRE-CONDITIONING:

It’s important to precondition your canvas before your first camping trip by using the following steps:

1.  Set-up camper making sure all windows are zipped closed and all vents and doors are closed.

2.  Using a spray, rather than a stream, from your garden hose thoroughly wet entire canvas and allow to dry.

3.  After drying spray again and check for any leaks to the interior of the camper.

4.  Any stubborn leaks may be sealed using 3M Scotch Guard Protector for fabric in aerosol spray following directions on the container.

5.  Complete application is recommended to further resist any staining that may occur as well as provide complete water repellency.

6.  Allow to completely dry before closing down unit.

CLEANING:

Suggested cleaning procedures for all Tent Fabrics are as follows:

1.   Use clean tap water with mild detergent and soft bristle brush, then rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue.

DO NOT USE HARSH DETERGENTS, SOAPS OR SOLVENTS SINCE THEY MAY REMOVE WATER REPELLENCY.

DO NOT USE AEROSOL TYPE CLEANERS.

DO NOT USE INSECT REPELLENT AROUND FABRICS SINCE AN AGENT USED IN MOST WILL DAMAGE OR DESTROY WATER REPELLENT FINISHES.

2.   Check interior for any leakage after rinse and allow to thoroughly air dry.

3.   Upon completion of each cleaning it may again be necessary to apply 3M Scotch Guard Protector for fabric, to assure water repellency if cleaning process has removed it.

TO HELP EXTEND THE LIFE AND APPEARANCE OF YOUR TENT:

1.    DO thoroughly clean whenever bird droppings, tree sap or dirt becomes apparent.

2.    DO apply Scotch Guard Fabric Protector any time accidental contact with Insect Repellent, Hair Spray or Suntan Lotion occurs.

3.    DO NOT fold down unit wet for any extended period of time. If canvas must be stored wet, open unit to thoroughly dry as soon as possible.

4.    DO NOT allow the sun to dry moisture (rain or dew) into vinyl. Moisture combined with dust and dirt will result in stains which will be almost impossible to remove.


Friday, May 29, 2020

Protecting Your RV's Electrical Systems


MANAGING YOUR ELECTRICAL NEEDS
RV electrical systems come in a variety of configurations and may be sized differently based upon their intended use. For example, most small to medium sized recreational vehicles incorporate 30 amp circuitry, which is sufficient to operate the rooftop air conditioner and some fairly small appliances. Larger, more elaborate units, may be wired for 50 amp service if the vehicle uses multiple rooftop air conditioners or is equipped with a washer/dryer set up.

However, the electrical systems found in most "casual use" RV's share one distinct commonality ... they are ALL wired for 110 volt, single phase power sources. Because the 30 amp three-pin angled and 50 amp four-pin offset plug configurations found on most campers look similar to those on the old dryer outlet at home, many novice RVers assume that these units require 220 volt service. Obviously, this can be an extremely costly mistake; in some cases requiring a complete re-wire of the unit and replacement of some or all of the appliances and electronic systems. Always make certain that your RV is connected to a 110 volt, 30 or 50 amp power supply as per the manufacturer's specifications. Heavy appliance wiring in the home such as clothes dryers, stoves, etc., are usually wired to a 220 volt service and, though the outlets look similar to the shore line plug on your camper, will seriously damage your systems.
"Why do my breakers keep tripping?"
Another common misconception among inexperienced RVers is the notion that RV electrical systems perform to the same level as those in the home. We field questions ranging from 'Why do my breakers keep tripping?' to 'Why did my shore line plug melt?' on an almost weekly basis. Electrical systems in the home are wired and sized specifically to meet the power needs of the home. The operative word here is "sized". Most home electrical power supply lines are fed by 200 amp or higher panel capacity and is expandable as greater load is required. As a result, virtually all appliances in a home environment may be operated simultaneously with little or no interruption of service.

RV systems, on the other hand, are limited to ONLY 30 or 50 amps of incoming power. A bit of simple math will reveal the problems that can result from overloading these systems. The following example, which assumes a unit with 30 amps of electrical service and many of the standard appliances demonstrates the underlying causes of these problems.

The 13,500 BTU - Roof top Air Conditioner draws around 16.9 amps when the compressor is on. Likewise, the amperage draw on an electric water heater averages 7 - 9 amps, the refrigerator compressor averages 7-10 amps and a 1000 watt microwave draws 8.33 amps. Given that all of these appliances are being used simultaneously, the total amperage draw is 39.23 and that's without the TV, hair dryer, 12 volt converter, lights, etc. Per the example, we ONLY have 30 amps of incoming power supply, yet we're drawing 39.23 total amps. This equates to a low voltage situation and low voltage translates to heat. Heat buildup is what triggers circuit breakers to trip folks and it's going to happen in this situation!

The moral of this story is, don't overload your power supply!!! It not only damages your on board systems, it is a potentially dangerous situation since the possibility of fire is present. Don't operate heavy amp draw appliances simultaneously such as the microwave and air conditioner. Also, changing the water heater over to gas operation will also help to reduce the load and stop worrying ... you won't blow the camping budget on propane gas just because you heat your water with it! Besides, gas water heaters recover faster and provide hotter water than electrical systems anyway.

One final piece of advice ... Even though you own a nifty little adapter, which allows you to plug your RV shore line into a standard "house-type" outlet, you need to keep in mind that these outlets typically deliver only 15 to 20 amps. Obviously, the math gets even more critical here, since 15 amps is not even sufficient to meet the needs of the air conditioner!! Oh and one more thing ... excessively long drop cords, especially undersized ones add to the resistance load to your unit and just like low voltage, resistance equals heat!! Don't run your air conditioner or other heavy draw appliances unless you're connected to a full 30 or 50 amp power supply!!

Wednesday, May 6, 2020

A HANDY PRE-TRAVEL CHECK LIST


Many of you use your recreational vehicles year round and others simply pack them away until the warm weather returns. In either case, the following little checklist saves campers a lot of grief prior to leaving out for a glorious time in the campground! Use this to ensure that you're ready to hit the road and you'll have a lot more fun when you get to the campground instead of repairing things when you should be sipping coffee around the fire.




**NOTE**: Whenever you depart from home, gas station, rest area or campsite, take some time to carefully perform these specific checks.

Interior
Lights Off
Antenna Down
Vents, Doors, Drawers closed and secured
Refrigerator/Ice Box Secured with Travel Lock
Loose Items Stored Away or Latched Down

Exterior
Tires Properly Inflated & In Good Condition
Wheel Lug Nuts Tight
Lights – Both Vehicles Brake, Turning, Headlights and Taillights Working Properly
Hoses (drain & fill) Disconnected & stored, Caps Secured
Power Cord Disconnected & Stored
Steps Stowed Away
Stabilizing Jacks Retracted
Access Doors & Hatches Closed & Locked
Propane Bottle Connections Secured & Service Valve Closed

Hitching & Coupling
Hitch Secure
Safety Chains Properly Crossed & Attached
Break-Away Switch Connector Properly Attached
Front Jack Raised
Mirrors Properly Adjusted

TENT FABRIC CARE AND MAINTENANCE

TENT FABRIC CARE AND MAINTENANCE PRE-CONDITIONING : It’s important to precondition your canvas before your first camping trip by using t...